Homage to a “down-to-earth” vegetable.
by Nate Rafn
March 2009
At first glance, potatoes (also affectionately called “spuds” or “taters”)
may seem a little bit dull. After all, their shape is not particularly
attractive, and most of the recognizable varieties are not very colorful.
Upon first taste, they strike many eaters as just plain bland.
But, add a few supporting ingredients and some cautious culinary creativity,
and you’ll win the hearts of all those who doubted the potential of this
modest root vegetable.
Potatoes are cultivated on six continents. They are native to South America,
and over the last 500 years, have been ushered to nearly every corner of the
globe. Among U.S. producers, Idaho ranks 1st in potato cultivation, followed
by Washington State, with Oregon placing 8th. Oregon’s potato crop is valued
at roughly $150 million, making it a substantial piece of the local
agricultural pie-chart.
The nutritional value of potatoes is an important contributing factor to
their advance as a major world-wide staple food. Spuds are high in complex
carbohydrates, protein, fiber, minerals iron and potassium, plus vitamins B
and C. Most of the vitamins and minerals are contained in or just below the
skin.
In the Willamette Valley, potatoes are available year-round, due to the
crop’s natural storage capabilities, and to the highly controlled
environment in which they are kept. Some farmers deposit root vegetables in
a shed or basement, while others use a carefully designed storage facility
that keeps temperature, light, and moisture in check. Sensible treatment
allows growers to preserve their harvest for up to 6 months.
From a culinary standpoint, potatoes put forward unique sets of challenges
and opportunities. First, potato varieties can differ in texture, thickness
of skin, and their response to various cooking methods.
Desiree and Red varieties, tend to be waxy, thin skinned, and will hold
their shape very well after being cooked- a good choice for potato salad.
Yukon Gold, Russian Banana, and Yellow Finn potatoes sport a thin,
amber-colored skin, with yellow flesh and a dry consistency- perfect for
mashing. The Russet Burbank has white flesh, and fairly thick skin- great
for French fries, chips, or baking whole. And if you’re persistent, you may
find a local farmer who grows French Fingerling or the inexplicably-dazzling
Caribe, or All Blue.
The exciting gastronomic possibilities of the potato truly reveal themselves
after consulting a few adventurous cookbooks. While it’s important to
recognize the strengths and weaknesses of each variety, it’s equally helpful
to remember that most potatoes are (in the grand scheme of things) quite
similar. Substitutions in recipes are not out of the question. And with
practice, they can be quite successful.
To start, find a local potato source. It could be a farm-stand, farmers’
market, your garden, or a grocery store that buys locally grown produce.
Then, attempt something slightly daring, like giving potatoes the starring
role in a waffle, pancake, or bread recipe. Another option would be to stay
on the traditional path, with equally delicious recipes for Hash-browns,
Twice Baked Potatoes, or Cream and Potato Soup. Try to incorporate
ingredients that marry well with the potato’s earthy qualities, including
leeks, garlic, sharp Cheddar cheese, mushrooms, cured meats, sausage, white
pepper, butter, and eggs. Hunt-down a recipe for Duchesse Potatoes. You
won’t be disappointed!
Make an effort to appreciate this life sustaining staple. Give thanks to the
local farmers who choose to grow it. And place value on the peasant food as
you would the epicurean delicacies. Potatoes excel in culinary versatility,
storage ability, nutritive value, and affordability, making this humble
vegetable one of our underrated agricultural treasures.
© Living Culture • Nathan Rafn Media